What high-end brands do those unpredictable but desirable, virtually-enabled, live-life-on-Facebook twentysomethings like? This is a question that obsesses luxury — after all, some chunk of said twentysomethings will become the luxury purchasers of the future, and knowing what they respond to is one of the great challenges of today, and potential cash cows of tomorrow.

The other day I had an experience that gave me some clues as to the possible answers. And it’s not what you (OK, I) might expect.

Outgoing French president Nicolas Sarkozy is escorted by France's new president François Hollande. Getty Images

Outgoing French president Nicolas Sarkozy is escorted by France's new president François Hollande. Getty Images

Watching François  Hollande be sworn in as the new French president today, I was struck by how incredibly color-coordinated the hand-over of power was. I know it wasn’t planned – the Hollande and Sarkozy camps are not that friendly – but Tim Gunn couldn’t have styled it better if he’d tried.

First, as if to acknowledge the serious state in which the country finds itself, as well as the choice they made by choosing the non-blingy Mr Hollande over the slicker Mr Sarkozy, both outgoing and incoming head of state dressed pretty much entirely in black and white (So Hollande had a navy tie on, but in photos it read black-ish, just like Mr Sarkozy’s) – as did their partners, Carla Bruni-Sarkozy and Valerie Trierweiler. It may be the last time things are quite so cut and dried for any of them, but it did make for a crisp, no-nonsense set of pictures that presented a picture of unity, in a we-all-want-what’s-best-for-the-state sort of way.

Meanwhile, both Mr Sarkozy and his wife wore almost matching pinstriped trouser suits and white shirts, as if to demonstrate their own united front as they head off into private life and put paid to the speculation, recently floated, that Ms Bruni-Sarkozy had been frumping herself up for election purposes. Her look now seems to say, the election is over, I haven’t changed.

All in all, it was a dramatic contrast to the last French presidential inauguration, when Mr Sarkozy and his then-wife, Cecilia both strolled into the Elysee clad in Prada: a clear message that a new sort of political brand had arrived.

Can fashion succeed in changing the image of Africa? Many musicians have tried: Paul Simon and Bono come to mind.  Ban Ki-moon, the UN secretary-general, seems to think the answer may be yes, as demonstrated by his appearance as this month’s cover boy of L’Uomo Vogue, aka Italian men’s Vogue, in an issue devoted to “Rebranding Africa.”

L'Uomo Vogue

Well, if you want to change an image, you might as well go to the image-makers.

“Africa does not need charity. Africa needs investment and partnership. Joining forces with civil society and private sector, including non-traditional players, like the fashion industry, has become indispensable.” Mr Ban is quoted as saying.

Forget Easter parades, with their flower-bedecked hats and pastel prints. Forget May day, and dancing around a ribbon-strewn pole among the crocuses. Forget those few days in April when the mercury suddenly hit shorts-wearing heights and all the tulips came up. It’s not until I hear the words “Cannes Film Festival” that my mind truly turns to summer style.

By now we hold these truths to be self-evident: that the extreme resilience of luxury brands in the face of European economic turmoil can be traced largely to the traveling luxury consumer heralding from Asia, Brazil and Russia; that this trend is probably going to continue; and that the smart luxury brand will shift its retail strategy accordingly.

What else to make of two new initiatives geared specifically toward making money from the phenomenon? The first, a new report from digital think tank L2, looking at how well brands are using online strategy to target consumer in “BRI” countries (the C now having matured into so big a market it gets its own report, I guess). The answer — bet you knew this — not well, with “only 10 per cent” of luxury brands surveyed having “local Facebook pages,” only 9 per cent “invested in google.ru” and only 24 per cent with a site in Portuguese. Shame. As to why this matters, well, the L2 folks proffer the following numbers:

Brad Pitt, the first male face of Chanel. Getty Images

Brad Pitt, the first male face of Chanel. Getty Images

After Nicole Kidman, after Audrey Tatou, after Carol Bouquet, comes…Brad Pitt? Chanel has just announced the latter will be the new, and first male face of their cash cow — aka the perfume Chanel No 5 — one of the best-selling perfumes in the world since it debuted in 1921.

Now, that’s a surprise.

It’s surprising because, other then making the announcement, the company has demurred from saying anything else on the subject (like why they made the choice), though those such as me asked, quite politely. It’s surprising because generally men are not thought of as effective selling perfume agents when it comes to women’s scents (though perhaps the Chanel folks were inspired by the recent success of Justin Bieber’s Someday, a woman’s fragrance with him in the ads). And it’s surprising because Mr Pitt’s fiance, Angelina Jolie, was recently the face of the Louis Vuitton monogram line, and Chanel and Vuitton are Big Luxury Competitors. Oooooooh. Could this be a family brand face-off?

Those international Vogues are fast becoming the action heroes of the fashion world.

Only last week they banded together to declare war on underage models, and now Vogue India has now announced it is following in the footsteps of American Vogue, British Vogue, and Italian Vogue and creating its own Fashion Fund initiative to promote the businesses of young Indian designers. Go team!

Model Chanel Iman and designer Tom Ford attend the 'Schiaparelli And Prada: Impossible Conversations' Costume Institute Gala at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Getty Images

Model Chanel Iman and designer Tom Ford attend the 'Schiaparelli And Prada: Impossible Conversations' Costume Institute Gala at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Getty Images

Mayor Bloomberg said it in his speech: “this is the Oscars of the East Coast.”

Tom Ford said it as he strolled the red carpet: “There’s more fashion here than at the Oscars.”

They were both talking, of course, about last night’s Met Gala, nominally celebrating the latest show, “Schiaparelli & Prada: Impossible Conversations,” but practically also raising an enormous amount of money for the museum’s Costume Institute (most of its annual operating budget, according to a spokesperson), working as highly effective advertising for all the fashion houses that participate, and this time also providing an unprecedented launch pad for a new brand.  And you thought it was just a party. Hah.

Indeed, this year, more than any other, there seemed to be an acknowledgement of the business dimension of the event, especially its red carpet.

Tonight Jeff Bezos, a man generally pictured in jeans, jackets and no tie, will stand at the top of the grand staircase of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in a tuxedo, shoulder-to-shoulder with designer Miuccia Prada and Vogue editor Anna Wintour, as hundreds of women on ballgowns pause to pay him obeisance (or just shake his hand).

Getty Images

Who would have thought? I mean, let’s just compare the picture at left to the one of Anna Winour at least year’s gala below, and you’ll see what I mean.

Getty Images

Amazon is the corporate sponsor of the Met ball, aka the event of the NY social season, which brings in about $10m annually to support the Costume Institute. No one ever wants to tell how much money the headline sponsor pays for this, but a source at PPR, which underwrote last year’s exhibit on Alexander McQueen, says it’s about a million.

Anyway, Amazon’s involvement is interesting. I think it speaks to the growing belief among the tech and fashion worlds that online is the treasure chest of the future, even if no one if sure what shape it will take, and it also suggests a desire to go upmarket on the part of what most consider, as William Susman told WWD recently, a virtual “Walmart.” Amazon has a fashion site, after all — myhabit.com – but of the 30 women’s sales currently being held, only seven are what they call “designer”.

Sponsoring the Met will give Mr Bezos instant entree with pretty much any high-fashion creative director he desires to meet. He’s scratching their back by supporting their industry cultural cause. Someday they may need to scratch his.

Mitt Romney and his wife Ann Romney celebrate their victory in the Illinois GOP primary. Getty Images

Mitt Romney and his wife Ann Romney celebrate their victory in the Illinois GOP primary. Getty Images

The elevation of Mitt Romney to Republican nominee presumptive appears to have acted as a sort of spur to his wife Ann when it comes to her entrance into the imagineering race.

Michelle Obama famously has a blog (mrs-o.org) devoted to her style, after all, which puts her front and centre in many cultural conversations and positions her as a champion of business without her or her camp having to say a word — other than “J Crew” or “Jason Wu” or ”Narciso Rodriguez.” It’s taken until now for Mrs Romney to begin to fight fashion fire with fashion fire.

Mitt and Ann Romney on 'CBS This Morning'. CBS image

Mitt and Ann Romney on 'CBS This Morning'. CBS image

Or so it seems. After a primary season marked mostly by a sea of unidentifiable red suits, earlier this week Mrs R appeared with her husband on “CBS This Morning” wearing a T-shirt printed with bird images by the New York designer Reed Krakoff. It was the first time as far as I know that Mrs Romney had dipped a public toe in the branded fashion world.

And it was an…interesting choice, for two reasons.

Material World

with Vanessa Friedman

About this blog About Vanessa Blog guide
Vanessa Friedman's blog deals with the fashion/luxury industry from both a corporate and consumer point of view, as well as the subject of dress.



Vanessa FriedmanVanessa has been the FT’s fashion editor since 2003, and is based in New York, though she lived in London for 12 years.
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